Indochina 2010

 

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In our young backpacking days we never got further east than India, so we did not make it to today's backpacker heaven, South East Asia. So this year we went to see what the fuss was about. 

We did a mix of independent travel and pre-arranged trips.  First stop was Thailand.  We flew into Bangkok, then straight to Chiang Mai in the north, a place well set up for travellers. We stayed there a week, then flew to Luang Prabang, the old capital of Laos.  (We had planned to go by boat down the Mekong River, but the Chinese had stopped the water flow upstream, so the boats could not float.)  Then we took a private tour by car to the Plain of Jars and on to the Vietnamese border, where we swapped cars and guides and headed for Hanoi.

In Vietnam we joined a tour run by Travel Indochina, a jolly crowd from the UK, Oz and Canada, led by a Kiwi.  We travelled the length of Vietnam with the tour, from Hanoi to the Mekong Delta, and into Cambodia by river boat.   The tour ended at Angkor Wat.  We spent another couple of days there, then took a taxi to the Thai border and on to Bangkok.  We flew home via Dubai.

If you click on "Photos" on the right, you can see some of our pictures of each section of the trip.  

 
In Chiang Mai we did the usual tourist things - temples, elephant rides and Thai massage. 

Thailand Photos

Laos was a real eye-opener for us.  The country suffered terribly in the wars of the 1970s and 1980s - the Americans dropped more bombs on Laos than on Vietnam, and unexploded bombs are everywhere.  Luang Prabang itself was mostly unscathed, but around the Plain of Jars we saw bomb craters and devastated ancient temples, and we were warned to stay on the path.

In the far east of Laos we visited the caves where the communist resistance hid in the wars.
Vietnam was quite a contrast to Laos.  As soon as we crossed the border the land looked greener and more productive.  Vietnam too suffered terribly in the war (the American War as they obviously call it), but there were fewer signs of it here.  A capitalist country, maybe as much as it would have been if the Americans had won the war (what was that domino theory all about?).

In the north we visited a minority village and spent a night on a boat on Halong Bay.  We saw the sights of Hanoi - including the memorial recording the capture of John McCain (I guess they wish he had become President, it would have been better for business).  Then we boarded the overnight Reunification Express to Hue, in central Vietnam.  

Central Vietnam was a chance to relax - nice beaches, the old city of Hoi An and good food.  Then we flew to Saigon (aka Ho Chi Minh City), and more reminders of the war.  Our last few days in Vietnam were spent in the Mekong Delta, then we took a boat up the river across the border to Cambodia.
More culinary delights in Cambodia.  In Phnom Penh spider was on the menu, and next day we met the live beasts.  Then we headed north to the floating villages of the Tonle Sap lake and Angkor Wat to visit the temples.  The temples fully lived up to expectations, with lots of Indiana Jones moments, and we spent 4 days there, some with the group and some on our own with a tuk-tuk.
The favourite means of transport in Vietnam and Cambodia is the motor bike.  One of the first tricks you have to learn to survive in Hanoi and Saigon is the knack of crossing the road through a swarm of bikes.  Some are used to carry goods, others to carry the family.  We saw one bike carrying 5 people, but only managed to photo a family of 4.

In Cambodia not so many people can afford bikes, so many people get around by overloaded truck.
Finally, a few photos of our travelling companions.
Photos

Updated December 2010. Copyright © Martin Hockey 2010